콤팩트한 인체공학적인 패키지를 특징으로 하는 Sennheiser의 RS 175로 색다른 차원의 음악 및 TV 감상을 해보십시오. 베이스 응답이 향상된 베이스 부스트 기능과 공간을 가득 채우는 생생한 서라운드 사운드를 제공하는 두 개의 가상 서라운드 모드는 새로운 홈 엔터테인먼트 시스템을 경험하도록 해줍니다.
뿐만 아니라, 최첨단 디지털 무선 기술은 다른 방으로 이동할때에도 명료하고 선명한 신호를 전송해주며, 사용자의 편의를 고려한 디자인으로 설치와 사용이 간단합니다. 헤드폰에 메인 컨트롤이 탑재되어 있어 제어가 간편하며 장시간 사용에도 편안한 착용감을 제공합니다.
Sennheiser의 RS 175로 한층 업그레이드된 홈 엔터테인먼트를 경험해 보십시오!
뛰어난 디지털 무선 오디오를 전송하는 귀를 감싸는 밀폐형 헤드폰
탁월한 디지털 음질 및 최대 328ft/100m(가시거리)의 송신 범위
다이내믹 베이스와 가상 서라운드 사운드 감상 모드 전환 기능
아날로그 및 디지털 오디오 입력 및 입력 간의 토클링 지원
사용자 편의를 고려한 간편한 컨트롤
다목적 송신기 - '간단 충전' 거치대 및 도킹 스테이션 기능 겸용
다목적 수신기 - 동시에 최대 2대의 헤드폰까지 연결 가능
인체공학적 디자인으로 편안한 착용감 보장
품질 보증 기간 2년
헤드폰
송신기
System
FAQ
Please check out our Set Up Tutorial video: RS 175
LINK: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2oP73KHe1DA)
OVERVIEW OF SET UP STEPS
Step 1: Remove all components from the box. These will include transmitter/charging station, headphones, power cable, audio cable, batteries and adapters.
Step 2: Insert the batteries into the headphones.
Step 3: Use the power cable to connect the transmitter/charger to an electrical outlet.
Step 4: Charge the headphones. The charge indicator light will illuminate to indicate charging. NOTE: The batteries in the headphones should be charged for 16 hours initially.
Step 5: Use the audio cable connect the transmitter/charger to the audio OUTPUT on the audio source. NOTE: Depending on your audio source you may be connecting into a 3.5mm headphone jack, red and white RCA audio outputs or a digital output.
Step 6: Turn on your audio source.
Step 7: Turn on your headphones which in turn will turn on your transmitter. The LED on the headphones will illuminate and start blinking and the LED on the transmitter will light up and remain solid.
Step 8: Wait 30-60 seconds for the wireless signal between the headphones and transmitter to be established and then you will have audio.
NOTE: If connecting to a digital output make sure that the audio device is set to output a PCM or stereo signal.
The RS 175 is the model number refers to the complete wireless headphone system. This system consists of the transmitter (TR 175) and headphones (HDR 175).
With the RS 175 turning on the headphones activates the transmitter. To turn on the headphones press and hold the power button on the headphones for three (3) seconds.
When the headphones are on the LED on the headphones will light up and the transmitter will activate and hence the LED on the front of the transmitter will light up GREEN.
DirecTV Genie Client boxes offers a non-traditional audio output that requires a special connector that you can get two ways
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Q88W0W?psc=1a
In a situation where a unit that has been functioning correctly has suddenly stopped functioning for no apparent reason the issue is likely an internal electronics glitch caused by a power surge. To resolve this issue an internal electronics reset is required.
Disconnect the transmitter (base station) from both the audio source and the power source and at the same time remove the batteries from the headset. Leave the system disconnected from power and the batteries out of the headset for 15 minutes. This gives the internal electronics unit a chance to reset back to factory settings.
After the reset period reconnect the system to power and put the batteries back in the headset and test the system.
As an industry standard the range of wireless headphones is measured "line of sight" (headphones from transmitter) as it is the only way for all manufacturers to measure the range in an equal manner.
The effective wireless signal transmission range (ie: how far the headphones can get from the transmitter) will vary from product to product and is determined by the type of wireless transmission signal (Infrared, radio frequency, etc) being used by the individual wireless headphone system.
The effective wireless signal transmission range will also be affected by external factors like obstacles, audio signal strength, wireless signal congestion, etc.
Typically a static/hum/hissing sound in the infrared headset is caused by one of the following events:
1) One of the RCA cables (red/white) is connected into an input rather than an output or the 3.5 mm connection has been plugged into a digital output rather than an analog output. To resolution is to make sure the audio cable is connected into analog audio outputs.
2) There is some form of interference with the infrared beam of light from an external source (ie: a lamp or other form of light is disrupting the infrared light). The resolution is to remove this external interference. NOTE: If the unit is connected to an LED or plasma TV the light from the screen can actually be causing the interference and we would recommend switching to a radio frequency (RF) model rather than use an infrared model.
3) The hiss is being created by the audio connections themselves through a faulty connection. The resolution is to try the unit on a separate independent audio source (like a cable box, DVD player, iPad, stereo, etc). If the unit works correctly on the new audio source you can then determine that the issue lies with the original audio connections and new connections with the original audio source need to be established. NOTE: For testing purposes we would recommend connecting directly to the audio source with the 3.5 mm connection on the audio cable as it is possible that a faulty 3.5 mm to RCA adapter could cause the issue.
4) The audio signal itself is corrupted and the hiss is actually part of the audio signal. This typically occurs when a cable signal is involved. The resolution is to call the cable company and request that the audio signal is reset.
A connection to the headphone jack of any audio component (ie: TV, A/V receiver, computer, etc) will automatically disable the speakers.
If you need the speakers active so others can be enjoying the same audio we recommend connecting your Assistive Listening System to the audio outputs (ie: RCA, optical output, digital audio out, etc) of the audio component.
The issue where the sound of the headphones is slightly behind the image on the TV or audio from the speakers could be caused by the latency of the headphones (the time it takes to transmit sound via a wireless signal) or it could be the device that the headphones are connected into and how that device is outputting the audio signal that is the issue.
Latency occurs in all wireless headphones however the technology being used to create the wireless signal does affect how much latency is caused. For example a Radio Frequency (RF) model (like the Set 840) has a latency of approximately 3 m/s whereas a KLEER digital model (like the RS 160/RS 170/RS 180) has a latency of approximately 45 m/s. Usually the delay (even at the 45 m/s level) is not discernible and hence goes unnoticed.
The component that the headphones are connected to will also affect this issue and could make the inherent latency more obvious. For example if a TV outputs sound to it's own speakers slightly faster than it outputs sound to the audio output jacks that the headphones are connected to then that would mean that there is a delay in the audio getting to the headphones on top of the latency of the headphones so the difference between audio and image would be more obvious.
To overcome latency issues sometimes the component that the headphones are connected into will have a latency adjustment which can be used to adjust the component to match up with the headphones. If the component does not have a latency adjustment then a second option would be to connect the headphones directly to the audio source (ie: cable box, DVD player, etc) so that the headphones get the audio signal slightly before the TV and hence the latency factor compensates for getting the audio signal before the TV.
RF is the acronym for Radio Frequency.
Radio Frequency is a type of wireless signal.
Radio Frequency signals have the ability to pass through most obstacles (like walls).
The different wireless headphone models utilize different signal transmission technologies so the compatibility and interchangeability of the different wireless headphone models is dependent on the specific wireless headphone models in question. Please review the chart below for compatibility guidelines.
NOTE: The special features of the various models are not applicable if you interchange models. For example if you take a set of headphones from one system (like the HDR 180 headphones from the RS 180 system) and pair it with a different system (like the RS 170) the headphones will provide audio however the headphones will not have the additional features (like Surround Sound) because the headphones do not have the supporting internal electronics.
Our wireless headphones are designed for home A/V use (like TV watching, music listening, etc) not music performance and hence we do not recommend out wireless headphones for music performance applications. The reason for this is that all wireless devices have some form of latency (ie: the time it takes for audio to be transmitted wirelessly). The latency of wireless headphones is fine for home A/V use but the latency is too great for performance use.
You would want something like EW 300 IEM G3 to go wireless with low latency, low noise and an acceptable input-dynamic range for performance applications.
Having sound from BOTH the TV and the headphones at the same time is actually determined by how the headphones are connected to the audio source. Generally speaking there are a couple of ways of creating these connections which are:
1) If a set top box (cable box, DVR, etc) is in use look for audio output jacks on this device and connect the headphones to the set top box to allow for independent operation of TV speakers and headphones.
2) Check the TV manual/set up guide for an option that allows the TV to operate the speakers and audio output jacks independently (ie: fixed output) to allow for independent operation of TV speakers and headphones and connect into the audio output of the TV.
NOTE: If you have a dedicated headphone jack and use that connection it automatically cuts sound to the TV speakers.
Having sound ONLY from the headphones and not the TV is actually determined by how the headphones are connected to the audio source. Generally speaking there are a couple of ways of creating this type of connection which are:
1) Connect the headphones to a dedicated headphone jack which will usually automatically route sound from the TV speakers to the headphone jack and hence audio is only coming out of the headphone jack.
2) If a set top box (cable box, DVR, etc) is in use look for audio output jacks on this device and connect the headphones to the set top box to allow for independent operation of TV speakers and headphones and hence the TV volume can be turned down or muted.
3) Check the TV manual/set up guide for an option that allows the TV to operate the speakers and audio output jacks independently (ie: fixed output) to allow for independent operation of TV speakers and headphones and hence the TV volume can be turned down or muted.
Sennheiser offers a range of wireless headset options that utilize a variety of audio transmission signals (including Radio Frequency and Digital Audio Signals) and both on ear and around the ear models to suit different wearing preferences.
These wireless headphone systems can be connected via a 3.5 mm plug into a dedicated headphone jack (which will often cut sound to the external speakers) OR to the RED & WHITE RCA audio output jacks (often found on the back of the TV, cable box, receiver, DVR, etc) and when connected in this manner they will allow for operation of both the headphones and the external speakers. All models offer unique functions yet will be able to provide an excellent listening experience and personal preference will play a large part in selection.
Our range of wireless headphones can be seen on our website (http://en-us.sennheiser.com/wireless-tv-headphones).
NOTE: We do NOT recommend Bluetooth headsets for applications like TV watching as the latency (time it takes for a Bluetooth signal to be transmitted) that is inherent to all Bluetooth devices causes the audio to be out of sync with the video.
A few quick differences to keep in mind when choosing:
WIRELESS HEADPHONES
- RS 110 - Uses regular batteries and needs to be manually tuned to transmitter to operate. Uses Radio Frequency (RF) technology to transmit the audio. Features an ON EAR "Open-Aire" ear cup design for hyper realistic sound however ambient sound will pass into the headphone too. The wireless range is up to 300 feet.
- RS 120 - Uses rechargeable batteries and needs to be manually tuned to transmitter to operate. Uses Radio Frequency (RF) technology to transmit the audio. Features an ON EAR "Open-Aire" ear cup design for hyper realistic sound however ambient sound will pass into the headphone too. The wireless range is up to 300 feet.
- RS 160 - Uses rechargeable batteries and will automatically tune to the transmitter once set up. Uses a digital signal to transmit the audio. The transmitter can be powered by batteries for a portable solution. Features an AROUND THE EAR closed ear cup design that will block out ambient sound. The wireless range is up to 60 feet.
- RS 165 - Uses rechargeable batteries and will automatically tune to the transmitter once set up. Uses a digital signal to transmit the audio. Features an AROUND THE EAR closed ear cup design that will block out ambient sound. The wireless range is up to 100 feet. Turning on the headphones automatically turns on the transmitter.
- RS 170 - Uses rechargeable batteries and will automatically tune to the transmitter once set up. Uses a digital signal to transmit the audio. Features a selectable Bass Boost and Surround Sound options. Features an AROUND THE EAR closed ear cup design that will block out ambient sound. The wireless range is up to 260 feet.
- RS 175 - Uses rechargeable batteries and will automatically tune to the transmitter once set up. Uses a digital signal to transmit the audio. Features a selectable Bass Boost and Surround Sound options. Features an AROUND THE EAR closed ear cup design that will block out ambient sound. The wireless range is up to 300 feet. Turning on the headphones automatically turns on the transmitter.
- RS 180 - Uses rechargeable batteries and will automatically tune to the transmitter once set up. Uses a digital signal to transmit the audio. Features an AROUND THE EAR "Open-Aire" ear cup design for hyper realistic sound however ambient sound will pass into the headphone too. Additional features include a a left/right balance control (ie: individual volume for each ear) and a speech intelligibility circuit to make spoken word much easier to understand. The wireless range is up to 360 feet.
- RS 185 - Uses rechargeable batteries and will automatically tune to the transmitter once set up. Uses a digital signal to transmit the audio. Features an AROUND THE EAR "Open-Aire" ear cup design for hyper realistic sound however ambient sound will pass into the headphone too. Additional features include a a left/right balance control (ie: individual volume for each ear) and a speech intelligibility circuit to make spoken word much easier to understand which can be controlled by Automatic Level Control (ALC) or Manual Level Control (MLC). The wireless range is up to 328 feet. Turning on the headphones automatically turns on the transmitter.
- RS 220 - Uses rechargeable batteries and will automatically tune to the transmitter once set up. Uses a digital signal to transmit the audio. Features an AROUND THE EAR "Open-Aire" ear cup design for hyper realistic sound however ambient sound will pass into the headphone too. This unit offers an expanded frequency response range that makes these wireless headphones the equivalent of the Sennheiser HD 600 Series wired audiophile headphones.
In a situation where a unit that has been functioning correctly has suddenly stopped functioning for no apparent reason the issue is likely an internal electronics glitch caused by a power surge. To resolve this issue an internal electronics reset is required.
Disconnect the transmitter (base station) from both the audio source and the power source and at the same time remove the batteries from the headset. Leave the system disconnected from power and the batteries out of the headset for 15 minutes. This gives the internal electronics unit a chance to reset back to factory settings.
After the reset period reconnect the system to power and put the batteries back in the headset and test the system.
The number of wireless headphones (regardless of manufacturer) that will connect directly to a optical audio output is actually quite limited. The Sennheiser RS 175, RS 185 and RS 195 Wireless Headphones have the ability to connect directly to a digital optical output that is outputting a PCM signal.
The alternate way to connect to a digital output is to use a digital to analog decoder which will take the digital signal and change it into an analog signal. When using a digital to analog decoder any analog headphones have the ability to be connected to a digital output.
NOTE: The Digital to Analog Decoder we recommend is the OREI DA 34 as it is a good quality component that not too expensive but does not compromise the audio quality.
As an industry standard the range of wireless headphones is measured "line of sight" (headphones from transmitter) as it is the only way for all manufacturers to measure the range in an equal manner.
The effective wireless signal transmission range (ie: how far the headphones can get from the transmitter) will vary from product to product and is determined by the type of wireless transmission signal being used by the individual wireless headphone system.
The effective wireless signal transmission range will also be affected by external factors like obstacles, audio signal strength, wireless signal congestion, etc.
In a situation that where there are multiple audio components (ie: cable box, DVD, player, etc) connected and the headphones are only receiving sound from one of the audio components likely indicates that one of two scenarios is occurring.
SCENARIO ONE
The transmitter is connected directly into an external audio component (like the cable box) and hence can only get sound from that component. To get sound from a different external component the headphones would need to be disconnect from the original external device and connect to the other external component directly.
A solution to avoid having to unplug from one component and plug into the other component all the time you could use an AV switching box to create a hub where all the external components can be connected into one place. The hub will then provide outputs to run audio to the TV and audio to the headphones as well.
NOTE: An analog version of an AV Hub can be seen here: (http://www.amazon.com/Cables-To-Go-28750-Composite/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393521908&sr=8-1&keywords=Cables+to+go+28750).
NOTE: A HDMI version of an AV Hub can be seen here: (http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Matrix-Switch-Splitter-Analog/dp/B004264PT0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372360465&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+rca+switch).
SCENARIO TWO
All of the external audio components are connected directly into a device (TV, Receiver, etc) however the devices are utilizing different types of audio signal (analog, digital, HDMI, etc) and the device that the headphones are connected to can only output some of these signals in a format that the headphones can utilize. The headphones are designed to use an analog signal so this is the type of signal that the device needs to output for the headphones to use.
The solutions that could be used here would be to try an get all the external audio components connected using the same type of audio signal and utilize something like the AV Hub mentioned above. Alternatively a component like a Digital to Analog Decoder or Digital Audio Decoder which will accept different forms of audio signals (including multi-audio stream signals like HDMI) and convert the signals back to analog for the headphones to use could also be utilized.
NOTE: A couple of the versions of the Digital to Analog Decoder are as follows:
- GEFEN Digital Audio Decoder (http://www.amazon.com/Gefen-GTV-DD-2-AA- Digital-Audio-Decoder/dp/B0021QBIBQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393427713&sr=8-2&keywords=GEFEN+digital+to+analog+decoder)
- OREI Digital to Analog Audio Decoder (http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA34-Digital-5-1-Channel-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7O0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393427822&sr=8-2&keywords=OREI+da+34)
Many of the older wireless headphones manufactured by Sennheiser were designed before the digital/optical connection became as common as it is today and up until quite recently most audio devices had both RCA outputs and digital/optical outputs hence the headphones were able to be connected directly.
It is not possible to retrofit older Sennheiser models to have a digital audio input as the internal electronics are designed for an analog connection/signal not a digital connection/signal. NOTE: Newer wireless headphone models (like the RS 175, RS 185 and RS 195) do have optical audio connections.
Since a digital to analog converter/decoder is not required for all applications it is not practical (and in fact would be cost prohibitive) to include this kind of a component with all older headphone models. Instead if a digital to analog decoder is needed for an individual set up it would be purchased as an aftermarket accessory. A good quality digital to analog decoder is the OREI DA 34.
Audio coming from certain content providers or devices (Netflix, Roku, Apple TV etc.) typically use an advanced digital audio signal such as HDMI or advanced Dolby audio. These cannot be translated into analog or PCM by most television software and so the signal is not passed through into the headphones. As a result you may get silence or audio from a different source like your cable box.
In order to resolve this, you will you will need to change the audio output format in the app or device to PCM (may be in the smart hub on some TVs) or you will need a digital to analog decoder. The Digital to Analog Decoder will take the advanced digital signal and decode it into an analog signal that your headphones can utilize.
You will not lose audio quality as the digital signal is a carrier signal only. Any audio you hear from your TV speakers, sound bar or headphones is an analog signal. The digital signal is translated by the TV, receiver or other device by the time it reaches the transducers. The only difference is where the audio signal is translated.
If your digital optical output is not in use we recommend the OREI DA34. The OREI DA 34 can be seen here: (http://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA34-Digital-5-1-Channel-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7O0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407330599&sr=8-1&keywords=OREI+DA+34).
If the digital optical output is already being used by a device like a sound bar you will want the J-TECHDigital to Analog Decoder because it offers both an analog output for the headphones to use and an optical output for the soundbar (or other device) to use. The J-TECH can be seen here: (http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTDDBSW0301-Decoder-5-1-Channel/dp/B00L3OZK1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1428599714&sr=8-1&keywords=jtech+digital+to+analog+decoder).
Please bear in mind that we recommend these specific devices because we have tested them and know that they work. We do not recommend digital to analog CONVERTERS (a different device entirely) because they cannot translate the more complex digital audio signals.
NOTE: We do suggest looking at your TV's documentation to make sure that there are no design features that prevent certain digital signals (like HDMI signals) from being output through the Digital Optical output before purchase. It is possible for this feature to exist but exceedingly rare so for most applications the Digital to Analog DECODER is the optimum solution.
A connection to the headphone jack of any audio component (ie: TV, A/V receiver, computer, etc) will automatically disable the speakers.
If you need the speakers active so others can be enjoying the same audio we recommend connecting your headphones to the audio outputs (ie: RCA outputs, digital optical audio output, digital coaxial audio out, etc) of the audio component rather than the headphone output.
The issue where the sound of the headphones is slightly behind the image on the TV or audio from the speakers could be caused by the latency of the headphones (the time it takes to transmit sound via a wireless signal) or it could be the device that the headphones are connected into and how that device is outputting the audio signal that is the issue.
Latency occurs in all wireless headphones however the technology being used to create the wireless signal does affect how much latency is caused. For example a Radio Frequency (RF) model (like the RS 120) has a latency of approximately 1 m/s whereas a KLEER digital model (like the RS 160/RS 170/RS 180) has a latency of approximately 45 m/s. Usually the delay (even at the 45 m/s level) is not discernible and hence goes unnoticed.
The component that the headphones are connected to will also affect this issue and could make the inherent latency more obvious. For example if a TV outputs sound to it's own speakers slightly faster than it outputs sound to the audio output jacks that the headphones are connected to then that would mean that there is a delay in the audio getting to the headphones on top of the latency of the headphones so the difference between audio and image would be more obvious.
To overcome latency issues sometimes the component that the headphones are connected into will have a latency adjustment which can be used to adjust the component to match up with the headphones. If the component does not have a latency adjustment then a second option would be to connect the headphones directly to the audio source (ie: cable box, DVD player, etc) so that the headphones get the audio signal slightly before the TV and hence the latency factor compensates for getting the audio signal before the TV.
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